Monday, 23 February 2015

Edinburgh, Scotland: The Kelpies

It has long been said that in the rivers, streams and lochs of Scotland there lurked evil spirits - spirits that would sometimes take the form of a magnificent horse.

These creatures would wait patiently for weary travellers to pass by, and those travellers would become their prey.  Any poor soul who climbed upon the back of one of these spirits would find themselves bound to the creature, unable to escape, as it galloped back into the depths of the water from whence it came…

Soon after my arrival in Edinburgh I went on a day trip to Loch Katrine. I had a hideous cold at the time, and spent most of the journey there and back passed out against the window of a bus.

On the way back to Edinburgh, I awoke to find myself looking at two enormous horse heads. They were gone as quickly as they appeared, and I was left feeling quite confused (and not altogether sure that I hadn’t imagined them).

When I was next at dinner with my lovely adoptive family, I asked if it were possible that there were two huge, metal horse heads along the motorway between Edinburgh and Stirling. It was on that night that I was introduced to kelpies.

Kelpies have appeared in Scottish folklore many times throughout history, and there are some fantastic stories about them in books and online. Scots are wonderful storytellers, I have found that reading those stories is a fantastic way to explore Scottish history and culture.

But back to those giant horses by the side of the M9…

Photo by Gus
The Kelpies at Falkirk are the largest equine sculptures in the world. They were, amazingly, erected in just 90 days in 2013. The Kelpies stand at 30 metres, weigh 300 tonnes each, and are made up of 990 unique steel plates.

They are magnificent. I cannot at the moment think of any sculpture or structure that I have been so in awe of. The Kelpies are so unique, with both of the sculptures displaying different personalities depending on which angle you look at them from.


Gus, Milly and I took a wee road trip to Falkirk to see The Kelpies, and arrived just as the sun was setting. Though they are beautiful to gaze upon in daylight, they are also well worth a visit at night. The sculptures are lit from within, with the colour of the light changing from night to night. On this particular evening, The Kelpies were lit with an appropriately demonic red.

Photo by Gus
To give you an idea of scale, here are some shots with Milly and Gus in them. Sadly, my phone camera cannot do The Kelpies justice - one of these days I'll have a real job and I'll be able to afford a proper camera!



As these beauties can be seen from the M9, they are super easy to visit from either Edinburgh or Glasgow. It shouldn’t take you more than 45 minutes from either city – and they are definitely worth the drive.

Photo by Gus
So next time you’re on your way to The Highlands, doing a quick run between Scotland’s two biggest cities, or just have an afternoon to spare – consider a trip to Falkirk and prepare to be amazed.

As always, dear readers, thank you for your time. And remember not to approach any untended horses on your Scottish adventures – it may be the last thing you ever do!
  




Saturday, 21 February 2015

Edinburgh, Scotland: The Coffee Crawl

Half term break is about to finish in the UK, so I have decided it is the perfect time to share the findings of my six month coffee crawl through Edinburgh with you.

If you’re in Edinburgh, maybe you can use this list to distract yourself from study for one final weekend. Alternatively, you can file it away for when you hit that point where you’re consuming more cups of coffee in a day than hours of sleep you’re getting at night. At least if you follow my well researched advice you can make sure it’s good coffee.

If you’re not in Edinburgh, bookmark this post for when you go. Nothing will ensure a wonderful day of exploring this city better than starting it with an excellent brew.

Living in Australia turns you into somewhat of a coffee snob; there is just no denying the fact that we do coffee well. The UK, on the other hand, is not a place people tend to associate with good coffee - but espresso culture is blossoming and if you look in the right places, you will be pleasantly surprised.

I love coffee. Anyone who knows me well could tell you that. But more than drinking coffee, I love going out for coffee. I very rarely drink coffee at home because, for me, it is the atmosphere of a café or espresso bar that really completes the coffee experience.

I spent six months in Edinburgh on a hunt for the best coffee the city had to offer. I tried the coffee at nearly 40 different cafés - I had some delightful cups, some inoffensive cups, and some downright undrinkable cups! I returned to the cafés I liked upon first visit many times, partly due to the need to feed my caffeine addiction, and partly to test the consistency of the quality of their coffee. I love really getting to know a café, getting to the point where the thought of going there fills you with joy.
So here are my top five picks. I adore all of these places, and I hope if you get the chance to visit you enjoy them too!


Located on York Place, just next to The Stand comedy club, Fortitude Coffee is an absolute gem. The coffee is fantastic every single time and always served with a smile. Fortitude only seats about 12 people, but if there’s no room (and no rain) you can perch on the steps outside.

In addition to the excellent coffee, Fortitude has free Wi-Fi, serves lovely and affordable muesli, soups by Union of Genius and cakes by Lovecrumbs. What more could you need?



3C York Place, Edinburgh, EH1 3EB


Artisan Roast has become quite the institution since opening in 2007, and rightly so. The Broughton Street café is the original Artisan, and lucky for me was also my local. The space is lovely and you can always find a seat – if it looks full when you walk in be sure to poke your head out the back.

It is the atmosphere that really hooked me at Artisan Roast. It is always bustling, there seem to always be strangers chatting to one another and there is always at least one cute dog inside. The quality of the coffee can vary a little bit depending on the barista, but the cakes and the sassy signs (my favourite stating ‘J.K. Rowling never wrote here’) make up for it.

The Bruntsfield Place café is equally good, so if you find yourself over that side of town do drop in.



57 Broughton Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3RJ
138 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, EH10 4ER

Wellington Coffee

Nestled away on the corner of George Street and Hanover Street, this charming little café took me a couple of goes to find. One thing it took me a little while to learn in Edinburgh was to look down, as well as up, when hunting for cute shops and cafés. Wellington Coffee is tucked down some steps beneath Penhaligon’s which, once you know it’s there, is a very handy location.

Walking to the bus station? Stop at Wellington. Had to go to always-too-busy Princes Street and don’t want to go to Starbucks? Stop at Wellington. Just really love tiny cafés and good coffee? Stop at Wellington.

I should emphasise the fact that Wellington Coffee really is tiny. With seating for maybe 16 people, it can get very squishy when full. If it’s a nice day, there is outdoor seating, if not, I would probably recommend a take away.



33A George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2HN


Just thinking about Steampunk brings a giant smile to my face. I mean, just look at it. It’s coffee made and served out of a vintage VW campervan! And it is damn good coffee as well.

You will find Steampunk every weekend at the Stockbridge Market and I can guarantee that it will be the highpoint of your Sunday. There is almost always a queue and a bit of a wait, but it is always worth it.

You can improve your day even further by getting one of the excitingly flavoured brownies on offer!

It breaks my heart that I never made it to the Steampunk roastery and café in North Berwick. If you go (and you should because North Berwick is very cute) please drop me a line and tell me all about it!




Stockbridge Market, 1 Saunders Street, Edinburgh, EH3 6TQ
49a Kirk Ports, North Berwick, EH39 4HL


What would an Edinburgh coffee blog be without a mention of Black Medicine? If you’re a University of Edinburgh student you no doubt already know of Black Medicine. I’ll be bold here and say that most of the coffee on campus is rubbish, and should only be consumed if you are truly desperate. But really, with Black Medicine just minutes from Potterow, there is no excuse to not visit.

As with Artisan Roast, the quality can vary a little depending on your barista – but I have never had a bad coffee here. They also do a delicious range of sandwiches, bagels and sweet treats.

Even if the coffee weren’t great (which it is), Black Medicine would be worth a visit just to admire the fit out. If you appreciate quality craftsmanship you will love the furniture in this place. You will just have to visit to see what I mean!



2 Nicolson Street, Edinburgh, EH8 9DH

I can now hear you wondering, which of these is my favourite café? In a scandalous turn of events, it is, in fact, none of them. You have read about my top 5 coffee shops, but my favourite café was not, in the end, a coffee shop.

I would go so far as to recommend that you don’t drink coffee at my favourite café, although it is perfectly nice coffee, because sometimes you just have to drink tea.


Lovecrumbs is quite possibly my favourite café anywhere in the world. That’s right, I said it. The world.

If you have been to Lovecrumbs, if you’re one of the many friends I dragged along to Lovecrumbs, you will have to agree that it is completely wonderful. If you haven’t been, finish reading this post and then get yourself over to West Port!

Tea, cakes, scones, brownies and tarts are what you will find at Lovecrumbs. The baked goods here may ruin all other baked goods for you in the future - that’s how delicious they are. The tea is delectable – I recommend the violet petal and the Scottish breakfast. And the space itself is so homey and welcoming that you will never want to leave - luckily, they don’t seem to mind.

The lovely people at Lovecrumbs are also about to open a little sister establishment, Twelve Triangles, on Brunswick Street. Promising bread, croissants, doughnuts and coffee – it will be one of my first stops when I come back to Edinburgh!




155 West Port, Edinburgh, EH3 9DP

So there you have it. If you find yourself in need of caffeine, cake, or just a nice sit down in Edinburgh, be sure to stop in at one of these places.

If they’re not convenient, I also have some honourable mentions that would have made it onto a slightly longer list…

Hula Juice Bar & Café                       West Bow, Edinburgh, EH1 2JP
Stag Espresso                                      Warburton Gallery, Victoria Street, Edinburgh
Machina Espresso                              2 Brougham Place, Edinburgh, EH3 9HW
Cairngorm Coffee Company             41a Frederick Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1EP

As always, thank you for reading. Go forth and enjoy as much great coffee as you can!