Monday, 22 September 2014

Edinburgh, Scotland: My Adoptive Family

A few years ago I met a young man named Gus. 

We met at a dinner at Jesus College, Cambridge. Neither of us students, we were both there visiting friends. I cannot remember any details of our meeting, only that he was there and so was I.

Two years later we met again at the Jesus College May Ball, both visiting the same people as the last time. Once again, I remember very little about anything we may have said to each other. I'm sure I probably complained about it being cold, and he probably wondered who the hell invited the unruly Australian.

Fair enough too, what was I doing?


Moving right along.

Some time after Cambridge we became pen pals and firm friends. And now that I am in Edinburgh, the poor boy just can't get rid of me.

This is Gus.


I already considered myself very lucky to know I would have one good friend in Edinburgh from day one of my exchange, but I now consider myself even luckier as Gus' lovely family have agreed to adopt me. 

Sorry Australian family!

I have gained a British father, mother, brother and sister, and it is just wonderful. I've been able to do all sorts of great things through my new fam. I got to go to the opening of a gorgeous exhibition which Gus has work featured in, I went to a giant festival-like party on a neighbouring property and got to dance all night long in my wellies (I'm never wearing heels again!), I got to bake and create all day with my sis (gosh we're talented!) in preparation for her 21st ceilidh (what a night!), I get to cuddle with my favourite little pup all the time (look how cute she is!), and there's a family trip to the Highlands in the works. 


I'll be bragging about these marzipan fruits until the end of time
Getting ready for some ceilidh dancing inside!





And to top it all off, I get to spend time out here. Who could ask for more?







SOMNIUM/DREAMS by Gus - such talent!


Sunday, 21 September 2014

Loch Katrine, Scotland: A World Away

90 minutes from Edinburgh. No internet. No mobile reception. Nothing to do but stroll and admire.

On Saturday I went on a day trip to Loch Katrine, it was completely gorgeous. There's really not much more to say.







And some photos taken by my lovely flatmate, Mademoiselle Marion...




My lovely French day trippers - Marion and Julie


Wednesday, 17 September 2014

Edinburgh, Scotland: Too Many Governments

In 1707 the kingdoms of England and Scotland entered into a union, bringing them together as one united kingdom – Great Britain.

Over the centuries there was a growing call for increased 'home rule' in Scotland so, following a referendum in 1997, the Scottish Parliament was set up in 1999 as a devolved parliament within the UK.

15 years on, another referendum is looming. Tomorrow the people of Scotland will arrive en masse at voting stations to answer the question ‘Should Scotland be an independent country?’



This is an incredibly unusual event. For part of a state to express a desire to become independent, and for a referendum to actually be allowed, is almost unheard of.

I have been following the campaign closely since my arrival in the UK, and in particular since arriving in Scotland and let me tell you, the atmosphere is electric – I have never seen people so engaged with the politics of their nation. This is not the usual state of affairs here. Much like in Australia, it is my understanding that voters here have become increasingly disenchanted with both politics and politicians.

But not anymore - everyone is talking about this vote. I have talked to people on buses, in shops, in cafés and while dancing at ceilidhs. The usual etiquette, dictating that you should not ask someone which way they intend to vote in an election, has been waved and people have been debating, both formally and informally, for almost a year.

I went to a debate last week at University and very convincing arguments were offered from both sides.

During a heated exchange on the economy, one of the No panellists suggested that an independent Scotland would not have the funds to set up a government. To which a very articulate (and slightly abrasive) Yes panellist responded

‘We already have a government – the problem is we have too many governments.’

This, to me, is one of the biggest issues facing voters. Most of the Scottish people I have spoken with feel they are not adequately represented at Westminster, and that the Scottish Parliament at Holyrood does not, and will not, have adequate power to change that.

Add this to concerns regarding currency, the economy, the National Health Service, university funding, nuclear weapons, foreign policy, exports, and EU membership and you will realise that the question ‘should Scotland be an independent country?’ is remarkably difficult to answer.

What is going to happen tomorrow?

I have no idea.

It would seem that no one else is sure either. Most of the polls are currently showing Yes at 49 per cent and No at 51 per cent, but there are others putting Yes ahead. The only thing everyone can agree on at this point is that it’s going to go down to the wire.

How would I vote?

I have no idea.

It seems to me that the Yes campaign has an advantage in that it is not so much a political campaign as it is a social movement. It is about change and empowerment and working towards a better future for the people of Scotland. The simple fact that they’re saying ‘Yes’ makes it a more positive campaign, and it’s that positivity and promise that has drawn voters in.

On the other hand, I think the Better Together campaign has suffered from a real image problem. No one thought that the Yes campaign would gain the support is has in recent weeks. So I don’t think Better Together thought they would really have to try to win voters. The campaign is surrounded by an aura of negativity and fear. It doesn’t seem like there has been a real plan offered to Scots for a better future – just the status quo.

The way I see it, no matter which way the vote goes tomorrow, the future is uncertain.

If it goes in favour of Yes there is uncertainty regarding the economy, EU membership, border control, and the funding of public services.

If it is a No there is uncertainty around the economy, EU membership (David Cameron has promised an in-out referendum on this by 2017), border control, and the funding of public services.

I won’t bore you by going into the details of all these things (unless you want me to) but, as you can see, debates about the best path for Scotland will continue either way.

A Scottish friend of mine recently told me ‘the maverick in me wants to vote Yes, but the realist in me will be voting No’. I imagine an awful lot of voters feel this way.

Because of that, I suspect that the silent majority will come out tomorrow and vote No. Deep down, I don’t think I want that to happen. I think an independent Scotland, after a tough transition period, would be amazing. But I also do not want my beloved United Kingdom to die. 

Come what may, there will be partying on the streets of this beautiful city tomorrow night. I only hope that on the other side of this vote the people are able to come back together and work towards a better Scotland, a better United Kingdom (if there still is one), and a better world.

Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Edinburgh, Scotland: The Heart of Midlothian

I love living in Edinburgh. Not least because of place names like Midlothian - which sound like they are from Game of Thrones.



Friday, 5 September 2014

Edinburgh, Scotland: The Coffee Crawl


The UK has a pretty dismal reputation for coffee.

They're tea drinkers after all! 

There is no doubt, however, that coffee culture in the UK is growing. I can say with absolute certainty that the coffee is about a million times better than it was during my first visit to the UK four years ago. 

I like to think it's because of all the Australians and Kiwis opening cafés. We know how to do coffee. 

In celebration of my official move to Edinburgh, and out of necessity, I am going to go on a month long coffee crawl to find Edinburgh's best coffee. 

Why out of necessity? How do you expect me to complete a semester of university without knowing where the nearest quality caffeine hit is? 

I am going to go to a different, independent café each day for the next 26 days. I am also going to photograph each coffee - don't judge me! Then at the end of the month I will publish my top 5. 

Wish me luck! 

The first four...

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

London, England: The First Stop

I love London. I just think it is the most wonderful city. It is undeniably exhausting as a tourist, because there are just so many things to choose from to fill your day!


I stayed with one of my greatest friends, Milly, who is one of the most beautiful people you will ever meet. She took me into her home for three weeks and spent all of her free time with me. It was pretty amazing.

I have been to London many times, so had ticked most of the big ‘must do’s’ off of my list already. So during my three weeks in London this time I tried to do things that were a little different that I hadn’t done before.

Borough Market



During my first week in London I accidentally stumbled upon Borough Market. I do not know how it is possible that I had never been to London’s most famous food market – there is nothing I love more than a good food market, so this visit was well overdue. Borough Market, which has been operating since 1755, officially has everything I could ever want; coffee, ice tea, wine, cider, champagne, baked goods, fudge, bread, ice cream, fresh fruit and veg, Turkish delight, baklava, Thai, Indian, Ethiopian, German, vegetarian and vegan cuisine! And the cheese. Mountains and mountains of cheese! The market instantly became one of my favourite places in London.

As I had made the rookie error that day of visiting the market with a full stomach, I made a return visit that weekend with Milly and some of my other friends; Tom, Gus, Myra and Matt. Finding each other and trying to keep six people together on a Saturday at the Borough was a task and a half – but it was great fun all the same. Ethiopian won my vote for lunch, and we then stocked up on a supplies for a picnic the next day. We got our cheese from ‘Drunk Cheeses’, a company who sell only cheeses matured in various wines. What a fabulous idea! £8 of fudge, some pâté, and several baked goods later we finally departed.



Borough Market is foodie heaven. It’s wonderful. If you’re coming ton London – put it right at the top of your list!

Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre



I’ve never felt able to do The Globe justice through writing or photographs. Anyone who has heard me talk about things I love in London has undoubtedly had to listen to me go on and on about this theatre.

It is an amazing theatre with a lovely story behind it. Forgive me if I’ve told this one before… In 1949 American actor Sam Wanamaker (father of Zoë Wanamaker) made his first visit to London and fell in love. He had a great love of Shakespeare, and a dream to build an accurate reconstruction of the 1599 Globe. In 1970 he founded the Shakespeare Globe Trust and spent the next 23 years fundraising and finalising plans to build the theatre. Against all odds, he succeeded in both securing land on the banks of The Thames, a short distance from the site of the original Globe, and securing permission to build a theatre almost entirely out of wood. With a thatched roof. Can anyone say ‘fire hazard’?

In 1993, in recognition to the amazing contribution he had made to British theatre, the Queen made him an Honorary Commander of the British Empire. He died later that year, just a couple of years before construction was completed. It breaks my heart that he never got to see him dream realised, but I love the story.

The Globe was opened by the Queen in 1997 and has been going strong ever since.

There are many things to love about The Globe; the £5 groundling tickets, queuing outside with fellow enthusiasts to get a spot near the stage, the fact that you’re right in the thick of the performance having to dodge swords and try to avoid spit and spurts of fake blood, the wonderful volunteers and the pub that fills up with cast members after each show. Above all though, what I love about The Globe is this – it is a tourist attraction. They could put on shoddy productions and still sell out each and every show, it would be so easy, but they don’t. I have never seen a play at The Globe that I wouldn’t give five stars – and I have seen quite a few.

The Globe attracts acting legends such as Mark Rylance, Eileen Atkins, Roger Allam, William Gaunt and Stephen Fry. That simply would not happen if they produced anything less than outstanding shows.

I went to see Julius Caesar and it was fantastic. As a general rule, I’m more of a fan of Shakespeare’s comedies, but really I love anything that is done well. It was really very gory, though that’s not exactly surprising considering the story. At one point, the guy next to me and I got our faces all covered in fake blood (hence the above reference) – it was gross – but it’s all part of the experience!

The Old Vic Theatre – The Crucible



I also managed to get a ticket for The Crucible starring Richard Armitage and William Gaunt at The Old Vic Theatre. The Old Vic reserves 100 £12 tickets for each performance to encourage under 25s to be involved with theatre, which I think is wonderful of them. I was lucky enough to get the last £12 ticket of the season – but there was only one so I had to be very rude and leave Milly at home!

I had never seen or read The Crucible, but having seen and read a couple of Miller’s other plays, I expected something depressing.

For those of you who don’t know, The Crucible is about the Salem witch trials of the 1690s (oh the outrage!). The play was just. so. good. It was mind blowingly brilliant. Richard Armitage, who I want to love but who hasn’t played a nice character since North and South, was incredible. William Gaunt, I know I keep going on about him but I love him, was adorable as Giles, getting a lot of laughs, which is quite the achievement in such a dark story. Samantha Colley, who was playing Abigail, was making her professional stage debut – which made her performance all the more impressive. I wanted to slap her for the whole time, meaning she was playing her part perfectly!

The Crucible was performed in the round, which I always love. I find it really interesting to see how directors choose to set their shows up in the round and I think you get a lot more from the actors by allowing them to move around in a way that is much more natural.

If I were a theatre critic, I would have given it five stars - just like every other critic in London. It was amazing.

The only negative I have to comment on, is not a comment on the show itself but, as per usual, a comment on the audience. I have a bit of an issue with people who just go to plays because ‘famous’ people are in them. Don’t get me wrong, Richard Armitage was a drawcard for me, and I have seen plays before because I love the actors in them. But I also love going to the theatre. There were three girls next to me at The Crucible who shuffled around during the performance, checked their phones, took photos, complained for the duration of the intermission about how boring it was, then left the second the lights went down. Then I saw them waiting at the stage door. Crazy fan girls are what they were. And I found them very rude. If you’re going to go to the theatre to see an actor you supposedly like, at least pretend to enjoy what they’re doing!

The State Rooms, Buckingham Palace



I had never been to Buckingham Palace before going one rainy afternoon with Milly. As you’ve perhaps picked up already, I love the Royal Family. Don’t ask me why, I just do. It is not surprising then that Milly and I had an absolutely wonderful time wandering around their home (in a strictly non-creepy way).

We did the free audio tour, and had a great time synchronising them as we entered each new room so that we could ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’ in unison. Buckingham Palace is both a working palace and a residence and has 775 rooms. The 19 State Rooms are open to the public and are completely gorgeous, but there are no photos allowed so you’ll just have to take my word for that.

We went to the State Rooms to see the exhibition Royal Childhood – a collection of toys, gifts, clothes, photographs and video belonging to the nine generations of royal children who were raised at the palace. It was a wonderful exhibition. Everything was adorable.

This was one of our favourite photographs – always needing the caption ‘what up bitches!’

Image credit
We also took a wander through the Palace gardens, which were lovely. I would very much like to have a garden like that but only if, like The Queen, I had a team of gardeners to do it for me.


The London Transport Museum

I find the Tube really fascinating. It’s quite amazing when you think about it, all of those trains and all of those people whizzing around beneath your feet without you even knowing. So I went along to the London Transport Museum to find out some more about it.

Rather than go on and on about the museum itself, I thought I would share some of the most interesting things I learnt with you.

- 200 years ago, you could walk for half an hour, in any direction from St Pauls or Westminster and be in the country
- When the underground first opened, you could smoke in the carriages
- The tunnels vary from 6 to 59 (!!!) meters below ground. That’s the equivalent of a 17-ish story building
- A journey on the underground was once just 2 pence (it is now £2.20)
- When London’s first escalator opened at Earl’s Court, a man with a wooden leg was employed to ride up and down all day to show people it was safe
- As the underground became more popular, there was a marked drop in umbrella sales
- In 1950, 350,000 items were handed in to lost property. In 2013, 150, 000 items were handed in. Are we less forgetful or less honest?
- The Tube carries 3 million passengers every day
- Harry Beck designed the Tube map that is still in use today in 1933. Beck thought that by “abandoning strict geographical accuracy” he could make the map clearer for the public. True. But thanks to that map it took me about 3 years to figure out the actual location of things above ground!

Image credit
There is also a section of the museum dedicated to the role of the Tube and transport workers during war. If you ever go to the Transport Museum, don’t miss this section, slightly apart from the main exhibition, it’s very interesting and moving.

- It is estimated that during the air raids of 1915, 4.25 million Londoners took refuge in Tube stations
- From the start of The Blitz in 1940, Londoners used the Tubes for shelter every night until the end of the war
- Only 198 people died in Tube bombings. I say ‘only’, 198 is obviously terrible, but knowing that 15,000 people died in The Blitz puts it into perspective somewhat
- Disused Tube tunnels were also used to store artefacts from the British Museum

There is also a great focus on the role of women in war, which I really liked.

- With the men at war, women were allowed to work in transport jobs for the first time, but only on a strictly temporary basis
- After WWI, the 20,000 women who worked for the rail, Tube, and bus service were almost all dismissed – some after years of service
- When Maida Vale Tube station opened in 1915 it did so with an entirely female staff
- Women conductors were known as ‘conductorettes’

I hope you found some of those facts as interesting as I did!

Now for my final fact – London’s iconic red buses carry an astronomical 6 million passengers every day, using a network of 19,500 bus stops!

London's first conductorettes, taken during WWI

WWII conductorettes
Image credit

So, those were the major things I did. Other than that, I spent a lot of time wandering and hanging out with Milly in various cafés around town. A very talented friend of mine, Will, created a website dedicated to his favourite spots in London after living here for two years. So I spent a lot of time stalking my way through his list, and that is how I plan to spend all future trips to London too!




The cinnamon bun from Nordic Bakery that will ensure I never try to make them myself again
This, right here, is why people love M&S


South Bank pub hop

Millennium Bridge


The Churchill Arms, Notting Hill
'A bear! Bear's are sweet!' Life sized bear statue on Oxford Street

I didn't quite make it to the actual TARDIS, but this mini one will do